Dora Lourie Klein

Dora Lourie (or Lurie) wrote this diary in July to August 1914 while on an educational trip to Europe, arranged through the Polytechnic of Central London. She and her group were in Switzerland as war was declared, and after travelling back to Liverpool became one of 120,000 US citizens repatriated by the US government.
Dora was born in Siauliai (Shavli, Shavel), Lithuania in 1888, one of eight children of Marcus and Rosa (nee Sachs) Lurie. She was Jewish. In the early 1890s she emigrated with her family to Boston, Massachusetts where she was educated. She became a teacher. In 1912-3, she became the President of the Jewish Women’s Anti-Tuberculosis League in Boston, instrumental in setting up a hospital to treat Jewish (and other) victims of the disease. Dora's 1914 European tour was organised by the Polytechnic of Central London (now the University of Westminster), which was established to promote education to working people. Dora married Morris Klein, of New York, in 1921, and died in 1972.

A trip Dora and Morris took to Europe in 1932 is blogged here.


All content is © Naomi Klein

Friday, 9 October 2009

Dora's friend Bessie London

Zelig London Biography from History of Rockingham County, New Hampshire

From: Claudia Menzel - menzel99@gateway.net

Surname: LONDON
Source: History of Rockingham County, New Hampshire and Representative Citizensmby Charles A. Hazlett, Richmond-Arnold Publishing Co., Chicago, Ill., 1915

Page 807

ZELIG LONDON, a well known business man of Exeter, proprietor of a dry goods store here, and also of a cloak store in Portsmouth, was born in Russia in March, 1859, his parents, Jacob B. and Sarah London, being natives of that country, where the father died after a long business career as a tailor. The children of the family were M. H., Zelig, Abraham, Israel and Ida.

Zelig London learned the trade of tailor in his native land and followed it for some years there in association with his father. After the latter's death he came to America, being then about twenty years of age, his mother coming here later. They located first in Boston, coming to Exeter in 1881. Here Mr. London has built up a good business in the dry goods line, owning in addition a cloak store in Portsmouth, as above noted. He was married in this country to Miss Fannie Millionthaler, a daughter of Lewis and Bessie Millionthaler, whose other children were Lewis, Moses and Sarah. Mr. and Mrs. London are the parents of four children: Bessie, wife of A. Salden, manager of the "White Store" in Portsmouth, owned by the subject of this sketch; Jacob B., a student in the Exeter high school; David, who is associated with his father in the Exeter store, and Esther Ruth, who is also attending school. In politics Mr. London is an independent voter. He belongs to the Blue Lodge of the Masonic order at Exeter, and also to the lodge of Odd Fellows here.

Wednesday, 7 October 2009

Dora arrives back in Boston (9 Sep 1914)

Ship's manifest for the Arabic, showing Dora and her friend Bessie arriving back in Boston on 9 September 1914

Cymric passenger list

Found on ancestry.com. This is kept in the National Archives at Kew.

Dora is 10th on the list.

Friday, 6 July 2007

Thursday, 31 May 2007

Promise



July 9, 1914 Liverpool
Cymric docked at 2.20 in the afternoon. Great excitement on board. Everyone shaking hands and exchanging cards. Promises of postals and letters made but will probably not be kept.
Mr Baker helped us with our luggage. Custom officers very kind and delightful. Mr [Walter C] Schumb, Mr Baker, Bessie [Landon or London, a librarian from Brookline] and I had a compartment all to ourselves. Delightful dinner on train. Cost only 62c.
Scenery simply beautiful. The fields fresh and green, separated from one another by splendid hedges. Houses all of brick, red and very effective against the green background. Altogether a beautiful day, no clouds, lots of sunshine and delightful company.

Conned

London
Arrived at London at about 8pm. We took a hansom to the West Central Hotel. Fare was only 1 shilling but I had no one shilling pieces and so cabby took an opportunity to cheat me out of the change of the two shillings by saying he had no change. Moral, beware of not having enough change in these uncivilized parts.
Our room in hotel very nice and pleasant, two windows, two beds, electricity.
Dead tired and bed at about ten. Still very light here at nine-thirty.

Walking

July 10, 1914 London
Walked down to Regent Street by way of Oxford Street, the biggest shopping district in London. Called at Polytechnic to arrange about tour. Little boys attending school there seemed very much like American boys except that they wore short pants and short stockings and the leg showing between the aforesaid pants and stockings.
Most men wear top hats and frock coat and white spats. Interesting looking but a trifle too well groomed.
Met Mr Schumb. He was carrying a red guide book of London. He is to join us on the tour. Bess bought me one, too. Both look like the real Cook articles, camera strap, books etc. Walked down to Hyde Park. Had to pay a penny to keep a chair. This entitled to sit down in Park anytime during the day.
Walked to Rotten Row and saw the most magnificently dressed women and spruced up men strolling and chatting. Lots of people horsebacking. Women look as if they were going to balls instead of merely out for a walk.
Walked to Serpentine Lake, boating, bathing, separate hours for men and women. Could hardly realise that I was on the ground made so familiar by the early English dramatists. Saw the wonderful Achilles statue in honor of Wellington. Then walked across Kensington Gardens, where we had luncheon, outside on the grass under great big Japanesey looking umbrellas. I felt as if I were at a garden party. Scene very gay and bright.
Had my first view of a young woman smoking in public. Cannot say that I like it, tho the girl was most attractive.
Walked over to the Albert Memorial Statue. Tremendous and imposing. Took bus to Piccadilly and walked over to Trafalgar Square. Met Mr Rowland, one of the Cymric passengers.
Mr Schwab had appointment so we walked thru Haymarket, down Regent, into Oxford. Looked into the windows and wished we had lots of money. Delightful shops. Heard English, French, Italian, German, Japanese on walk. Most cosmopolitan town. Found a dear little place to dine, and walked home safe, sound and weary, and very much in love with London.
Met a Mrs Wall, a charming old lady who is stopping at our hotel. Bess had some telephone calls from a former Professor. We are to have luncheon with him Sunday, tea with a Mrs Heilbron. Mr Meriam called but we could not connect with him.
National Gallery closed to visitors on account of militants.

Militants

July 11, 1914 London
Mr Schumb, Meriam, Rebecca, Miss Holmes, all went to oldest church in London, Bartholomew, 1300 Norman Transitional, wonderful pillars, tombs and walls, 6d admission. Then to Tower, by way of Lord Mayor’s House, Bank of England.
Tower – had to give up all bags and bundles on account of militants. Wonderful armoury collections, crown jewels, horrible dungeons.
St Paul’s simply tremendous. The only place that ever made me really believe that one might pray sincerely in a church – vast and spacious and awe inspiring. Many heroes honoured here. Rivals Westminster in that. Has a vast sitting capacity.
Went to theatre in evening. Shaw’s Pygmalion. Walked home and arrived at hotel 12.30. Many pitiful sights in London – old woman selling laces at 12.30 and sleeping all night on steps or in doorways.

Love in a mist

July 12, 1914 London
Too tired to sightsee so slept till 9. Dressed to go to Professor Sumichrast*, Ealing, for luncheon. Got on top of bus. Passed Hyde Park, Kensington. Started to pelt. Got train to Professor’s house. Most cordial people, entertained us royally. He will procure us tickets to National Gallery and to Parliament. Came home at 6.00. Had dinner in hotel. Read a little in Punch. Mr Meriam called. Sent him home at 10.30.
The Professor has a most beautiful garden and is very proud of it. Cut us some flowers, one of which particularly interested me – It is called “Love in the mist.”

* Note
Professor Fritz (Friedrich) de Sumichrast had a very colourful past. He was a friend of Alexander Graham Bell at the Royal High School. His wife divorced him after she discovered him bed with a prostitute. He subsequently followed Bell to Canada where he married again (happily) and made a living teaching languages, writing for newspapers and writing on foreign affairs. However, his sordid past caught up with him and, in 1886, he was sacked. He and his wife moved to the US in 1887. He became a respected member of the Harvard faculty.
Transcripts of letters from Bell to his wife Mabel can be found at The Library of Congress archive:

Letter 1

Tuesday, May 23rd, 1887

I arrived here today at noon and was met at the depot by Fritz -- who seemed glad to see me -- and I have no doubt he was, poor fellow.

Mrs. Sumichrast seems as bright as ever -- and I am sure she loves her husband as much as a wife can do.

What a wicked thing of that Mr. Hind to attempt to bring trouble into so happy a household.

I rather think that Fritz proposed to Mr. Hind's daughter in the past!!

Your telegram has relieved my mind for I was troubled at first by not having any word from you to greet me on my arrival. Any word from Charlie and Grace? What news of Graphophone Co -- and your father's attempt to compel a cessation of the manufacture of stock by the American Co. -- until after they have manufactured instruments?

I have been much interested in reading over old letters to Fritz from my brother Edward -- who died in 1867. One of the letters may be produced in evidence as showing that Fritz was known by the name of "Sumichrast" in 1868 instead of "Sumichrast-Roussy" or "Roussy" simply.

Letters take so long that I hope you will not spare the telegraph. If you grudge an occasional long telegram -- I will be glad to pay it out of my $5000!! When you telegraph please be sure to say how my mother is. I suppose she must be home by this time.

Fritz has a photograph of my brother Melville which is so much better than anything we have that I am going to have it copied by a photographer here. I have had a little talk tonight with Mr. Tremsine and of Fritz' counsel. Tomorrow afternoon all his councel are to meet me here -- for the purpose of pumping me dry. Fritz and I have been looking over old note-books and letters to fix dates -- and I have no doubt that my testimony will be of value to him. I hope so -- for it is a shame that one who has led as pure and good a life as he has -- should have his moral character attacked here -- where he has no friend who knew him in the past. The trial will commence the day after tomorrow (Thursday) morning -- and I expect to go on the stand in the afternoon.

Letter 2

May 25th, 1887.

I have been suffering all day from a bad headache which only cleared off when the lawyers met hers this evening. They were the bearers of a letter of apology to Fritz from the lawyers on the other side -- authorized by Mr. Hind -- and an offer to compromise the libel suit by paying Fritz $1500.00.

A vigorous discussion ensued and it was decided that no apology could be received -- that the libel could not be apologized for -- and Fritz would not compromise matters. Nothing buy a verdict from the court would be accepted. It is understood that if Mr. Hind chooses to propose to the court -- to submit to a verdict and pay damages -- then Fritz will accept. But it must all be done in court -- and the initiative must be taken by Mr. Hind. To this his counsel has consented -- so it is not at all unlikely that the whole case may be settled in court tomorrow without evidence being taken.

However Fritz goes to the Court tomorrow morning prepared for any emergency. If I do not give my testimony to the court -- I shall probably have an opportunity of doing so to the public through the newspapers -- and this I trust may be of some assistance to him.


Letter 3
May 26th, 1887

I telegraphed you that Mr. Hind had consented to a verdict of guilty with damages $1500 and costs -- so Fritz is much relieved. I was interviewed this evening -- so my testimony concerning the past character of Fritz and etc., will probably appear all wrong! (as usual) in the papers. Have been hard at work all day -- in the old St. Paul's burying ground copying records from tombstones. Interviewed a Brown. Lunched at the Halifax Club with Mr. Hunt (of counsel for Fritz) and Mr. Heary (of counsel for Mr. Hind)






Delightful

July 13, 1914 London
Went to Polytechnic to give last payment. Mr Smith had signed our admission cards so we could be allowed to go to the British Museum. Wonderful place, too much to see in one day.
Particularly impressed by autographs, Charles I, II, Disraeli, Washington, Queen Victoria, Lady Jane Grey, Queen Elizabeth etc. Saw Captain Scott’s diary of his Antarctic Expedition. Last words were pitiful “For God’s sake take care of our people!”
Had lunch in museum, then took bus to go to Mrs Heilbron who took us autoing. We drove over to Stoke Poges Church where Gray wrote Elegy. Saw tomb. Penn family had private pew and private entrance to church. Delightfully quaint spot.
Drove to Windsor Castle. Too late to be admitted but saw grounds. Passed Eton. Boys just going to chapel. The cream of England’s aristocracy, all dressed in silk hats, Eton collars etc.

Palaces

July 14, 1914 London
Up at 8.30. Telephone call from Dr Morris. Met Mr Schumb, Mrs Harris – all went to Hampton Court, wonderful gardens, lunch there; no royal people living there now (or relations to royalty). Ride home tedious.
Met Dr Morris at Strand Palace Hotel, wonderful place, no tipping allowed, had dinner there. Many Americans come there, met woman who had travelled over all the world – made another tour this year.
Walked thru Strand. Dr Morris very fond of cinema pictures so we all went to one. Beautiful place, as pretentious as our best theatres. Met Mr Harris, one of the Cymric people, as we were walking in Strand. He greeted us like long-lost sisters. Had card from James Baker. Invitation to a Garden Party on Friday – unable to accept since we leave for Paris then.

Uplifting

July 15, 1914 London
Mr Meriam called but had no time to talk to him as we were on our way to Westminster. Just in time to hear the close of service, choir and organ - wonderful. Every little crevice seems to re-echo the organ’s tones. Poet’s Corner interested me more than anything else. Imagine being surrounded by the bodies of Shakespeare, Chaucer, Milton etc! It seemed sacreligious to walk about there. Marvellous statues, Gladstone and Disraeli very near together. Tombs of Mary Queen of Scots and Queen Elizabeth on opposite wings, directly opposite each other. One is uplifted when in the Abbey. The effect is tremendous.
Madame Tussaud's Wax Works – life size and lifelike figures of all nations. Napoleon’s relics tremendously interesting and unique. Visit to one of London’s lungs, Regents Park Botanical Gardens.

Suffrage

July 16 & July 14, 1914 London
Met Prof. Sumichrast and after much red tape admitted to the National Galleries. The suffragists have so scared London that it is almost impossible to go thru the Galleries.
Met Sir Charles [Holroyd], the director, pleasant man. Saw originals of many of my favorites. Age of Innocence, Angel’s Heads, Corot pictures (landscapes), Turner’s Evening Star and Fighting Temeraire, Reynolds’ Mrs Siddons, Head of Christ etc.
Had lunch at Ye Old Cheshire Inn where Johnson and Boswell used to go. Saw the cozy corner where they sat. Price steep but place unique and well worth seeing.
Many Americans there, met a Scotchman who explained how Cheshire cheese was eaten. Many famous autographs in the register. Of course entered mine. Perhaps my friends will recognize it when they go there. Shopped in afternoon. Beautiful shops in Bond Street.

On parade

July 17-18, 1914 London
Left hotel at 9.30. Went to Victoria Station with luggage. Checked it, took boat trip on Thames, at Westminster Bridge, passed House of Parliament. Imposing buildings and wonderful scene. Lot of kiddies taking boat trip. Kew Gardens magnificent. Hot houses filled with rarest tropical plants. [unreadable] English [unreadable] the prettiest I have seen in England.
rrived in Victoria Station at 7.45. Left at 8.45 for Dover. Ride not very pleasant. Took boat at Dover for Calais. Passage was shaky and rough as I had expected. An immense searchlight played all the time – only one hour across. Lights of Calais looked enchanting and made Calais look like a diamond-studded crown.
Arrived at 12.30am. Took train to Paris. Very interesting South African people on train. French man and his family hopped in at 4.00. No room in carriage but they remained just the same.
Landed in Paris at 6.00, took taxi to Hotel du Palais at 6.30. Everyone asleep. Woke up a sleepy porter. Fine room and beautiful view of Seine and Eiffel Tower. Dead tired and went to sleep after breakfast.
At half past twelve we walked down to Ave de la Opera, a wonderful shopping district. Women most beautifully dressed. Men, foppish and rather feminine. Had lunch at the daintiest little shop.
Walked home thru Ave de la Reine. Saw two parades. Soldiers looked rather small and undersized compared to English soldiers. Splendid marching.
Streets wide and surrounded on all sizes by immense statues and remarkable buildings. Polytechnic Party had dinner at 6.30. Rather interesting crowd. Conductor, Mr Betts, studying for ministry.

Panoramas

July 19, 1914 Paris
Went to service at the Madeleine Church, Roman Catholic. Beautiful structure. Service too elaborate and stagey. Met Misses Brooks who were on Cymric.
Mrs John Hofmeyr, wife of the famous John Hofmeyr of South Africa, man who really got the bill to have Dutch on equal standards with English in S.A., passed. Also passed the repeal of Wife and Sister bill. In the afternoon Mr Schumb, Bess, Mrs Lazzeur (nurse from S.A.), Mrs Hofmeyr and I went to Eiffel Tower. Grand panorama of Paris. Met an Alaskan and wife, also heard Yiddish spoken. Turned in surprise and found a Frenchman talking yiddish with an American Jewish man and his lad (Newark, NJ). In the evening had a chat with the Gruny [?] family of Australia. Quite a cosmopolitan day.

Through Paris

July 20, 1914 Paris
The Polytechnic Party started at 9.15 to drive thru Paris. Mr Wannamaker, Mr Schumb and some Australians were with us. Very entertaining drive. Paris beautifully laid out. Wonderful statues. French very fond of heroes and have innumerable statues all about. Napoleon, the great national hero. Saw tomb of Eloise and Abelard, cemetery in which Rachel and Wilde were buried. Napoleon’s tomb simply magnificent and imposing, pure blue and white light. Drove to Eiffel Tower on way home. Met a Mrs Cassels from Alaska.

Vivid

July 22, 1914 Paris
Drove over to Versailles. Went thru the Madame de Maintenon house and the Grand Palace. Saw the broad entrance to the palace which the infuriated mob used in their attack on Louis XVI and his queen; the wide stairway which the Swiss Guards defended; the balcony on which Marie Antoinette stepped to face the mob. Louis XVI’s picture or statue in almost every room. The palace just breathes romance, intrigue and tragedy. The French Revolution becomes horribly vivid and appalling when one goes thru the palace. Wonderful gallery of battle pictures, each picture representing a different battle. Dreadfully realistic. Gardens most beautiful, 300 fountains playing.
Visit to Saint Cloud where Louis XIV used to promenade with his ladies. Nothing very extraordinary, well planned and some exceptional statues.
In the evening to the Paris Opera House to see Rigoletto and a Ballet act about a little hunchback. The Paris Opera House a most magnificent building, Louis XIV, in 1669. That man certainly was a lover of beautiful and artistic things. Many of the most beautiful of Parisian treasures were built during his reign. Not a representative French crowd at the Opera. A travelling audience. English, American, Germans, Turks, Hindu. Performance excellent and very much appreciated.
Mr Schumb, Bess, Mrs Wannamaker in the party.

Tragedies

July 23, 1914 Paris
In Fountainbleau. The tragedies of French history seem to unfold with one’s entering the Palace of Fountainbleau, built by Francis I and improved on by Henry IV, Louis XIII.
Especially is one overwhelmed with the graphic and meteor like career of Napoleon as depicted in the room which he used.
The characters of French king, queen , favorites seem to people the palaces and one can almost feel the spirit of intrigue pervading this magnificent chateau. Here Napoleon divorced Josephine and abdicated in favor of his son in 1814. Here he attempted to commit suicide. On the steps of this palace he bade goodbye to his old guard. (The tapestries are beautiful and the furniture and adornments and [unreadable]. The forest of Fountainbleau very pretty. Saw spot where Louis XV met Louise la Valere [sic].

Rodin

July 24, 1914 Paris
To Luxembourg [Gardens]: Confess that modern art appeals more than old time art. The Awakening of Humanity, The Grandmother, Kiss, The Hand of God, The Blind Children, The Mourners, all thrilled me with their power and marvellous expressions.
Rodin, the master of present sculpturing has some wonderful things but the most wonderful is that of the Thinker in front of the Pantheon, a splendid memorial to France’s dead heroes. The figure represents a man deeply in thought and could not have been more suitably placed.
The visit to the Pantheon finished my stay in Paris. I leave with the greatest admiration for a people so versatile, so artistic and so appreciative. No country can compete with France in painting, sculpturing and architecture.

Warm welcome

July 25, 1914 On train from Paris to Lucerne
Left du Palais, Paris at 7.45 am. Bus to train. Mr Wannamaker, Mr Schumb, Mr and Mrs Thorn, Eva Wannamaker, Bess and I in compartments. Rural France very attractive but not as much as England.
About three o’clock the country began to grow more mountainous and interesting. Here and there little red-roofed houses began to peep out from among the hills. Farms and villages look more prosperous.
Had tea at Basle, Switzerland. Landed in Lucerne at 8.30 in pelting rain. Boat to chalets. Brilliant illumination of chalets to welcome the guests. Delicious hot supper and cordial welcome awaited us. Room facing Lace Lucerne just glimmering thru the mist. To bed at 11. Bed so high that one almost needs a ladder to get into it.

Amusing

July 26, 1914 Polytechnic Chalet, Lucerne Lake, Switzerland
Sunday, late breakfast. Rainy in morning. Mountain peaks all covered by mist. About twelve o’clock Mr Crump and family entertained us with a talk on Australia. Very amusing man and most entertaining. After dinner we walked to Lucerne.
Very interesting little town on Lake Lucerne, surrounded on all sides by mountains which seem to disappear every once in a while under large banks of clouds. At night the observatories on mountains are lighted up by electricity and look like diamonds in a magnificent crown. The sparkling lake, the twinkling stars and the bright lights on the highest peaks make a fairyland of Lucerne. Mr Heap, Goody, Mr and Mrs Wade.

All Europe

July 27, 1914 Lucerne
Boat to Rigi station. Met Mr Goddard, Miss Needham. Mr Moulton found some very good seats for us on the train.
Rather foggy. View of mountain crags, gorges, falls disappear and reappear. Magnificent engineering work to build this railroad. Took us to peak 6000 feet high. View of twelve lakes. Austrian border. Walked back part way. Mr Mitchell with us. Place where William Tell was captured. Little church among rocks, Legend of “Sisters” and “Magic Water”.
Mr Mitchell tells me that he believes all Europe will go to war on account of Serbia Austrian situation.
The Crumps taught me some Australian slang. Went with Mr Walter Heap to Lucerne. Saw the gambling room. Men and women terribly excited. Home at 10.30.

Rainbow

July 28, 1914 Lucerne
Trip to Mt Pilatus, 7000 ft high, by way of remarkable railroad going up a steep incline of sometimes from 145 to 155º. The longer I stay in this wonderful place the more I marvel. The views exceed each other in beauty and charm. We saw real Alpine goats and forlorn-looking little goatherds. Lovely little houses built right in rock. Quaint and pretty flowers grow right up to the summit. Lunch at hotel. Walked thru the Pilatus gall[unreadable], blasted thru summit rock. Dreadful sensation of falling when train starts down incline. It seems as if the train is going to pitch forward. Mr Schumb asked me to go to dance.
Wednesday, July 28. Home from Pilatus at 8.15. Supper at 8.30. Interesting discussion with Mr and Mrs Jackson of Australia. (Rainbow) mist.

Dancing

July 29, 1914 Lucerne
Quiet rest at the chalets. Took a long walk after the rain, along the mountain roads. The mountains seemed to step out of the mist, gaunt, peaked, tragic.
Shopping in Lucerne. Dentist. Dance at chalets in the evening. Met some Stellenbosch people. English dances ten years behind American. Boys wished me to dance tango but refused as it is considered rather improper here. Had a splendid talk with Mr Wade. Mr Heap (no relation of Uriah) tried to teach me the English waltz. Mr Wannamaker, Eva, Mr Schumb were also there. Walk in garden with Mr Heap, beautiful red lights playing all about garden. Turned in at 10.45.

Concern

July 30, 1914 Lucerne
Expedition to Andermatt. Passed William Tell’s chapel. Walked up to Andermatt after riding in the corkscrew train of St Gotthard. Another wonderful bit of engineering. A Swiss fort in Gotthard. Andermatt the centre point of Italy, France, Germany, Austria. Only 18 miles from Italy. Passed wood where Caesar entered Switzerland. Also Pilgrim Road to Rome. Andermatt well protected by fort.
Great concern these days on the war question. The exchange offices are shown in gold, there having been a run on all the European banks.
Mr Wade and I walked up from the station instead of riding on bus. Mr Heap taught me how to play billiards.

Beautiful day

July 31, 1914 Lucerne
Trip around Lucerne. Quaint houses, streets, old crooked lanes; tawdry churches. Very fashionable resort. Many Americans, rather overdressed. Met Mr Anderson, he is to play in a Shaw skit, probably in Boston.
Had lunch with Mr Wannamaker, Eva, Mr and Mrs Wade. Visited Glacier Garden and War [?] Museum. Rather tame after British Museum. Said goodbye to Wannamakers who are off to Italy.
Mr and Mrs Jackson of Australia expect to come to America in the fall. The day has been most beautiful, the first really beautiful day we have had. The mountains are indistinct and dim but Lake Lucerne sparkles and shimmers and smiles.

War

August 1, 1914 Lucerne to Meiringen, Hotel Sauvage
Up early to say goodbye to Crumps and Jacksons who are going to Italy. Left for Meiringen at 8.30. Invited for weekend in England by the Goodys. Money (gold and silver) very scarce here. Arrived at Meiringen at 2.30 pm. Lunch. Walk to the gorge, very fascinating and wonderful. Old woman spinning lace. Hotel deserted of all except Polytechnic people.
All Swiss men called to front. Germans all called home.
Beautiful little villages surrounded on all sides by snowcapped hills.
Rumor that Germany and Russia have declared war. Everyone very much worried. We shall have to cut out our German trip.

Skirmishes

August 2, 1914 Meiringen, Switzerland
Early breakfast. Rumors growing more and more exciting. Report that Russia and German have had skirmish. All communication by phone and telegraph cut off in France. French socialistic leader, Jaurès, murdered. French to be neutral, England also.
Two American men arrived tonight. Many American tourists stranded because of lack of gold or silver. Luckily we have some gold. The American Express people will honor our checks. It may be lovely here but the heart and mind are too disturbed to enjoy it. All the porters have left. Only two men in hotel besides proprietor and men in our party.

Closed

August 3, 1914 Interlaken
Left Meiringen early in the morning. Party who were supposed to go to the Rhone Glacier were stopped – no horses, no teams - found three horses and small team. Men walked 40 miles. Sail on lake – beautiful view of the Rix [?] falls.
Arrived in Interlaken. More people than at Meiringen. Shops have beautiful things but no one dares buy as cash is very scarce.
Went to the big concert and gambling casino. Gambling hall closed on account of war. Concert fine but people all look wobegone. Many of the men here are to be called out.
American Ambassador issued order that Americans should try to get to Switzerland as soon as possible. Letter from Bill [Dora’s brother] today. Don’t know just what to write to folks.

Rumors of trains

August 4, 1914 Interlaken
Mr Booth arrived to take charge of Interlaken party. Weather miserable and atmosphere also. Didn’t go on any excursion because of fear of spending money. Cooks and American Express and Bank closed.
Rumor that there will be a special train for English-speaking people out of country. Delightful English girls with us, Day and Reynolds. Walked to get a little more cheerful and squandered 35¢ in pastry.
American consul issued notice that Americans should be patient. Mr Booth came in to say that France has declared war. Things begin to look very serious. We leave for Grindelwald tomorrow morning.

Avalanches

August 5, 1914 Journey to Grindelwald
Beautiful morning and wonderful ride up to the side of the Jung Frau. Noisy folks tumble all around one and thunderous avalanches startle me by rushing down the mountain. Walked on a real glacier. The cracks and crevices look deep and dangerous. The ice beneath the snow shows a wonderful green color. Charming and quaint flowers arouse one’s admiration and delight. The peaks of the Jung Frau look virgin white and must be terribly fascinating to the adventurous climber.
Arrived at Hotel at 7 o’clock. Heard that England has declared war because Germany is in Belgium. Didn’t sleep a wink all night.

Food is short

August 6, 1914 Grindelwald - Hotel Adler
Most miserable day – had had no sleep – soldiers forming all night – all horses called for. Polytechnic party to remain here until special train is ready. Hotel will give us credit. Mr Boss, remarkable man, thoughtful and generous.
Rained heavily but walked to gorge just to do something. Back to hotel, drenched to skin. Meeting of Americans and Englishmen in Hotel bar. Twenty-three Americans. Names taken for passports.
Cablegram has been sent to US asking for aid and ships to take us home. American consul says this is the best place to stay. Lucerne, Berne and Interlaken crowded and food supply is running short.
Tried to cheer up some of the people and we passed a rather hysterical evening. Outlook more hopeful. No English boats sailing so it is no use going to England.

Not so bad

August 7, 1914 Grindelwald
Very, very beautiful day. Things do not seem as bad in the sunshine. Bess and I had a laundry [unreadable]. Cannot risk good cash by sending things to laundry.
Took long walk after dinner to a glacier. Party of seven – Days, Reynolds, Bess and I. Heard three avalanches. Walked back to hotel with Gladys Day. Told me all about Kate’s love affair and her own. Too bad.
Called on American, had heard no definite advice as yet. French sending trains for French people. English will probably go immediately after that.
Mr Wade said our Rhine hotel coupons could be used here in hotel. That means our board is paid for another week. Mr Boss will accept our American checks. The food is excellent and almost luxurious. Only worry is about home people.
Report that England has captured German boat with £1,000,000. Hope it is true.

Worry

August 8, 1914 Grindelwald
Another beautiful day. One does not realize that the world can be at war. This little town is so quiet, peaceful and charming. Shampoo today.
In the afternoon went to village. Mr and Mrs Wade are very good to us. They invited us to tea. We all felt quite like millionaires to have a real tea party now. Met Mr Dyrenforth [?] who said that American consul is to be here on Tuesday.
In the evening we had a little impromptu concert. Told story of Brer Rabbit and Brer Fox. Everyone liked it very much. To bed but not to sleep. Am too worried about folks. Will cable very soon to let them know how comfortable we are.

Mountains

August 9, 1914 Grindelwald
We are very fortunate again. The sun shines, it is warm and everything has a cheerful aspect. Too lazy to go to church.
Sat on bank, read a little, thought a little, watched the butterflies and waited for an avalanche from the mountain across. There is one huge mass of snow that looks as it if might drop any moment. Mrs Wade says it has been like that for seven months.
The mountains are wonderful, they tower majestically above the little valley and seem to promise protection and comfort. At sunset the tops are pink and warm and the chilly aspect of the snow tops departs under the magic transformation of the sun. Send cable tomorrow.

No news

August 10, 1914 Grindelwald
The weather is still good. No war news of great importance. It is reported that 100,000 Americans are in Europe. How we will get back to the USA is a great problem. The English people expect to go in a few days but I doubt. Registered for passport today.
Cabled home. “Content – delayed.” Cable has to be in French. No letters go thru.
We have plenty of money but I am looking for a cheaper place for us. No use to spend on an expensive hotel when we do not know how long we shall have to stay here.
Took long walk and had a nice chat with the Reynolds boys. Mr Wade has invited us to his house in England in case we are sent to England first.

Peaceful

August 11, 1914 Grindelwald
The fates are still propitious. The valleys smile and the peaks invite one to tramp ever upwards. Too lazy to go on a long tramp. Six of us brought our pillows and rugs and had a peaceful and enjoyable time in the garden. It is delightful to watch the white butterflies flitting about. Notice from America that boat is coming with $5,000,000 in gold for relief of needy Americans. Hired rooms today – 5 francs for room and board. Maid gave me a great many gooseberries fresh from the garden. They were delightful . I have not seen them growing in such abundance since I was a little girl.

Moving

August 12, 1914 Grindelwald
Moved today from hotel to pension. It was a very amusing procession. Bess carried some of her dresses. Walter Schumb some other piece of wearing duds and I three pairs of shoes. The porter followed with our valises. We have nice rooms, plain but wholesome food and considerate landladies. I am getting very homesick. Had a game of bowling green with Mr Flower and Mr Smith. Played quite well for beginner.
Alpine thunderstorm at four o’clock. Wonderful, majestic. Americans are evidently to go to Italy to wait transport to America. May the day come soon! Mrs Collerson [?] very nice to me. Called to see Mr Dryenforth [?]. He will see about getting our checks cashed. A very fine gentleman of the old school. Either a judge or lawyer in Chicago. The Days have not heard yet from their people. We are all getting rather worried about it. No definite war news. Italy is neutral so far tho pressure is being put on her.

Lost love

August 13, 1914 Grindelwald
Very beautiful day. Providence does seem to have some regard for the “refugees”. Had a talk with the British consular agent, Mr Jones. Extremely clever chap. No definite news.
In the afternoon the Reynolds family and Days to come over to have lemonade with us. Almost thought I was at home.
Kate Day came over when they were at meeting. Poor girl! She wept bitterly. Very unhappy about the man she loves, a German officer. The money for them all arrived today. We were all very happy for them.
Called on Mr Dryenforth. Cable from US that boat left the 12th to make arrangements for transportation. We’ll not get out until the 1st I think. However, as long as the weather keeps us in good humor we shall not grumble.

Shimmer and glow

August 14, 1914 Grindelwald
Went for a long walk with Mrs Wade. She is a great admirer of Americans. If she did not have such a great horror of the water she certainly would take a trip across. It was quite hot but the woods were deliciously cool and the fields in front of us rioted in the blues, pinks and yellows of the alpine flowers. Met the crowd returning from a tramp up the [unreadable]horn. They were dead tired and did not enthuse much about the beauties of the sunrise.
In the afternoon Dr Dryenforth called to see if were quite comfortable. Nice of the dear old man to do so! In the evening we call went or a stroll past the station. Beautiful evening. The cloud effects are wonderful here. They shimmer and glow and cast spells of enchantment over the mountain tops.

Dreams of escape

August 15, 1914 Grindelwald
Read a little in the morning. Went for a walk to post office. No news of any kind. Do not know just when we’ll get away. Rather discouraging. Am getting more and more homesick. How happy I shall be when I get back to our home! Rained in the afternoon, chatted and read. Mr and Mrs Wade called and we had quite a tea party. Kate Day also called. Mr and Mrs Wade amused hugely by their keen admiration for the Americans.
Our landladies seem to be very fond of us. The food is good and wholesome and I think we did well to move. Bessie went to bed early, while Walter Schumb and I amused ourselves by playing two-handed whist.
Italy has definitely decided to be neutral and that gives us a hope that we shall leave very soon by Italy.

Beggars

August 16, 1914 Grindelwald
Went to the English Church this morning. Did not enjoy it one bit – responses sing song and sermon perfunctory. Was glad to get out again. Mr Flower, Mr and Mrs Wade and the Day and Reynolds and Walter, Bess and I went out for a constitutional.
Little girls and boys plead “Edelweis?” at every step. Little tots begin to pur forth a begging hand before they can tell their names. What a pity to create beggars of such a sturdy race as the Swiss.
The mist was very heavy and the clouds hid the mountains. We could hardly believe that there were any about here. Played cards and games, read a little, and to bed quite early, glad that another day had passed. Walter Schumb changed some Express checks for us and was once more in affluence.

Lethargy

August 17, 1914 Grindelwald
Rained all day. Walked to post office in the morning. No news of any kind. Report that Bryant has sent over boats for 8000 Americans. When the boats are coming and from what ports they are leaving is a mystery. Bess finds consolation in visiting the photographers daily. I have read all manner of trashy books and old papers.
In the afternoon the Day and Reynolds girls called and we played whist. They had a whist “drive” in the Adler in the evening. We were too lazy to go. Mr Clarke called with passports and some more hazy information. I am beginning to think we shall have to stay here for the winter sports.

Rainy day games

August 18, 1914 Grindelwald
Another rainy day. The clouds look as if they wish to go to other lands but the inexorable peaks confine and hold them. Walked down to the Little Sheildig [?] and then called on Mr and Mrs Dyrenforth.
No definite news from consulate so wrote to American Consul at Berne. There’s a chance of our making our way to England if we wish to make a try. Will decide what to do when Mr Jones gets back from Berne.
The bunch had tea, a jolly one, too and as usual Mr Flower curled himself up into a knot. In the evening we played some corking good games and I won the prize – a very lovely picture of the Eiger. Statues, grose[?], cork[?], Finding the Child, “Are you there ‘brother’”, the hat-pin game. Won a prize, the only one, thru Mr Wade’s partiality to me.

Going soon

August 18, 1914 Grindelwald
Brighter day. Decided not to wait for answer of American Consul but to go on tomorrow to Geneva and then to Paris. Washed all afternoon and shopped a little. Saw Mr Dyrenforth. Advised us to go. Walter Schumb also going.
Feel very sorry for our poor old landladies who will feel the loss of our board money keenly. Many of the Poly people discouraged from going but we feel that we must get to London as soon as possible as we have just heard that our boat is to sail.
Washed and packed. The Days, Reynolds and Wades all called to see us. Frank Reynolds and Jeff Day carried our heavy luggage to station. Everyone most kind to us and promised to telephone to all their families and assure their folks of their well being.

Lost fortune

August 20, 1914 Grindelwald
Up at 4.00am. Had breakfast and on train at 6.00. Found a number of other people who are trying to make their way independently to England. The scenery along the road was wonderful and as the day was beautiful and we were happy that we were once more “on the go”, the trip was very enjoyable.
At Interlaken we met the proprietor of The Sauvage, Meiringen. He told us that his hotel was closed and he will lose almost all his fortune on account of this war. He seemed to think that US would become an ally of Germany but I am sure that it is not so. We have nothing to gain by joining a nation that has shown itself to be so thoroughly under control of military despotism that it can no longer distinguish between right and wrong.

Small world

August 20, 1914 En route to Berne and Geneva
Train from Interlaken left a little after eight for Berne. Mr Billings was with us. A Mr Liebman, an Atlanta, Georgia man, talked with us. He knows Rose Freemuth [?] and ever so many of the people whom I know down South. Promised to drop him a card if we got there safely and also to let him know how the trains were running.
Walter got into a fuss with a grumpy old American who insisted on usurping some girl’s seat. At Berne at 11.45. Rushed to bank but it would not accept American Express checks. Rushed to another bank – closed. Fortunately we still had plenty of cash with us so we all decided that to eat a good dinner would be the best thing to do at present. Wonderful array of dishes – all for 40¢.
After dinner walked to French consul to get our passports signed. Office closed until two. Walked back to town and bumped into Mr Wagner whom we had met on boat. He intends to go to Germany with his father and doesn’t care how long he stays around here. He looks very well indeed and we had a long chat about the good times we had enjoyed on boat. To American consul. No people in office. He was alone.
American con had disbanded as soon as they could get out of Switzerland. They gave no information but just skipped as soon as the opportunity came. Consul told us to go to the Schweitzer bank and if we could not get checks cashed there to come back to him. To the bank – found it closed except to special people.
After much smiling and talking with guard permitted to enter and cashed checks. We can say that we opened a bank. To French consul and had our passports vise’d – 10f – The French have been coining money – thousands of people have had to get their passports signed. Met Mr Wagner again and he said lots of people got passports vise’d for nothing because they pleaded poverty.
Train at 4.10 to Geneva. Awfully uncomfortable, hard seats, pouring rain, could not see scenery. Train filled with soldiers going to frontier. Passed all along Lake Geneva but could not see it on account of heavy mist and rain. Arrived at Geneva at 11.00pm – weary, blue.
Head porter met us and advised us not to go to hotel as Paris train left 5.25 am and there would be a tremendous crowd trying to get in. He said he would save an apartment [sic] for us and allow us to go in at one o’clock and we could have a nap.
Also insisted on going with Walter to buy us enough food for the two days. Met Mr Hu(???), and two or three other Americans – Weinsteins of New York. In train at one – attempted to sleep but impossible. Saw a party of Americans who couldn’t get any seats and called them into our compartment. Very jolly and we passed a quite happy morning. Landscape very beautiful and soft – green – trees beginning to have the French [unreadable] appearance.

Martial law

August 22, 1914 En route to Paris
Pope dead. St Goddard tunnel now open. Italy still neutral. Japan has declared war on Germany. German boat captured by Brazilians.
Arrive at Bellegarde at 6am. Dreadful crush at customs. French people very kind – did not bother to examine bags and suitcase. Examined passports. Comfortable carriage on train. Sweden on Germany’s side. Beautiful country from Bellegarde to Ambérieu – poplars, acacias, beeches, no heavy trees – large gray crags. Many military camps.
At Ambérieu at 9.15. Leave at 1.30pm. During time ate our lunch on a stone wall near the railroad track. Went back to deposit our things with luggage but they would only allow Bess to pass thru barrier.
Walter and I stayed on other side. Walked around. Town very dirty and smelly – lots of soldiers as it is a military centre.
France under martial law. Train went by filled with military supplies, cattle, artillery, cannon, horses, men. Cars of soldiers decorated with flowers. Red cross nurses. Collection made for wounded. Train left at about 1.30 for Dijon.
Rode in same car with Mr and Mrs Hicks. Stopped at Bourg. Train filled with soldiers – flower wreathed trains. Brilliant red and blue uniforms. Red cross train with wounded from Micharrien [?unreadable]. Cigars and candy to soldiers .
Stopped at Louban[?]. People waiting with flowers. Fields ploughed but not sowed. Brilliant country scenery. Heard Mrs Wilson died. Flock of geese and gulls. French wished us happy voyage.
Arrived at Dijon at 9.00. Rushed for train. Could only get 3rd class com. Three French soldiers with us. Sang French love songs. Very gay. No sleep. Bad air and lots of smells. [unreadable]. Soldier wrote Kaiser’s name on wall – others stamped and cursed it. Arrived in Paris morning. Soldiers helped with luggage – got taxi for us.
Head of information department took charge of us at Paris – took us to dinner, discussed literature, bought us papers – early train to Boulogne. Paris very quiet. All shops closed. Very few people in streets. Had Con. of Police stamp passports.

En route

August 23, 1914 En route to Boulogne, Folkstone and London
Had splendid carriage on train. Walter and Bess took naps. Arrived in Boulogne at 8.45. Not crowded at station – passports in order to get in. Slept at hotel. Wakened at 4.25am. Boat left at 6.25. Tried to get on. Officer would not permit until we got another passport form from the prefecture of police. Office not open until nine.
Walked about old city. Interesting – crooked streets, cobble stones, queer headdress – cathedral – lying servant. Went to chateau under military escort. Another stamp. Old gates. Prefecture made passports.
On boat at 1.45pm. Train from Paris crowded, 1000 people on boat. Many acquaintances at Folkstone at 5.00. Waited until special train made up. Miss Day and Miss Burden on train. London at 8.30. West Central Hotel. Many people had asked for us. Slept for the first time in 4 days.
Trip has been hard but most exciting and interesting. Many things have happened – too numerous to jot down. The danger was not great but the people had been intimidated by false reports.
Had hot baths and revelled in them. Was good to feel real fresh linen.

Gifts

August 24, 1914 London
Up at 7.30. Breakfast at 9. Walter, Bess and I walked to White Star office to get our railroad ticket to Liverpool. Immense crowd there so we decided that I wait there and they call on the Poly people about refunding money on our tickets. Met Mr Jones who had been on Cymric with us. After much delay procured my tickets and took taxi to Poly.
Walter and Bess gone so I had a chat with Mr Harris. Met Mr and Mrs Parks. They had been to Germany. Were there when war was declared. Fearful experience for them.
Decided to have lunch and have a grand spell in buying things for home people. Bought Mother a silk sweater, Father umbrella cane, handkerchiefs and silk scarfs for boys, studs, cuff links for Rube [brother], matchbox for uncle, gloves for girls etc etc. Never felt so much like spending money in my life. I presume it is because I had to hold the reins so stiffly during our Switzerland scare. Bess, Walter and I had supper and Bess and I left on six o’clock train for Liverpool.
London does not seem to be affected by war as much as Paris. Paris reminds one of a corpse – so still, so mournful, so inanimate.
Arrived in Liverpool at 10.00pm.
Up at 9. Breakfast at 10. Bess did some shopping. I bought some books and collars and pictures for myself. Met number of people we knew going home in same boat. All talked war, war, war. Cabled home that we leave to-day. Met Mr Snieff [?] and Mr McGee. They will see that our dinner seats are next to theirs. Mr Jones, Mr Wilson, Miss Rile/Rite?, Miss Gal[unreadable] all on boat. Terrific crowd. Steerage sold for first class accommodations. $150 for steerage berth. We had our own berths and mighty glad too. Boat left at 7 o’clock . Hurrah! Now for a good seat and sleep. No writing.
DORA'S DIARY ENDS